Sunday, January 22, 2012

A Misty Land Before Time: Halong Bay

 After a long ride back on the night train from Sapa (4 berth cart not as lux as the one we took up), we arrived early at the Handspan tour office before they were open. I needed to use the potty bad so when someone arrived they let me in. I stepped over a few sleeping bodies in the middle of the restaurant to get to the toilet. In Vietnam places of business tend to be situated under housing and since many generations of family members sleep in such a tight space, anywhere you can lay down some padding and a blanket becomes a bedroom. Often times the first floor business is also your garage for storing motorbikes.

Later that morning we boarded our 3 and a half hour bus ride to Halong Bay. Halong bay is on the north east coast of Vietnam close to the Chinese Border. The bay is geologically unique because of its more than 2000 limestone islands that jut out at sharp angles from the sea. As we boarded our junk ship for an overnighter and left the pier I was immediately blown away by the beauty of these limestone formations. I fired off a bunch of shots on the camera later to find that the first islands I viewed were only a few, and as we continued to cruise for hours out into this huge bay, and the islands just kept passing. It's hard to describe or even to show you how majestic and beautiful Halong Bay is, even the photos do it no justice. The fog made it difficult to show in photographs the depth of just how far the islands go.

 

 Part of our day was spent kayaking between the islands. The crew took us to a very remote area where there was no other junk boats to disturb our peace. The water was so smooth with barely any movement. Between the islands you could hear our voice echoing off the cliffs.

 The next day we were taken to a floating village that I guess wouldn't exist if it weren't for tourists. Life in the village is so remote and quiet many people would leave if the government didn't support the fisherman and encourage them to stay. We were freezing and dripping wet after the hour of being rowed around by a little lady in what I would describe as a giant woven basket, painted on the bottom with some kind of sealant, a few wooden benches and a pair of oars tied to it.

 

 

 The trip back wasn't so pleasant. I had gotten into a disagreement with the tour guide who seemed to be cutting our trip short because he wanted to get home for Tet, the Vietnamese new years. We had our trip shortened before during our Sapa trek because of Tet. Apparently Tet is the best excuse for getting out of delivering the services we signed up and paid for through our tour company. 

During our drive back two terrible things happened. One was that we lost a tire in the rear of the bus. There were extra tires so we could still drive but much slower. We spent at least an hour extra on the road looking for someone willing to change our tire. Because of Tet it seemed no one wanted to work, finally after our fourth stop someone changed the tire.

The second terrible thing was that we drove by an accident on the highway. On one side of the highway there was a wrecked scooter. On the other many other motorbikes and people had gathered. As we approached the group we saw a mat laid out over a body on the road. A pot with some incense sticks had been lit next to the body and people were paying there respects. The drizzly weather and insane driving practices in Vietnam made it hard for me to be surprised about the death; although still saddened. There were young children in our bus and we did our best to get them not to look. I could only imagine that the dead cyclist's family was not going to have a great Tet this year and I felt so bad for them.

 

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Sapa Mountain Town

 After an overnight train ride in our luxury private train car (Ballin'), we hopped in a van for a one hour ascend up to the highest point in Vietnam. Up in the mountains, tucked away in a little crevice is Sapa Town. We were checked in to Chau Long New Wing, our very nice hotel. From the balcony of our room you can see the  fog creeping into the mountain vistas and a few tiers of farmlands. Truly a magnificent site in this not so quiet but very little town. We had a 2 day light trek booked. During our treks we visited some of the Hmong, Dzao and Dzai villages. The people of the mountain tribes live very cheerful and happy lives with just about nothing. Basic necessities crammed with multiple generations of family members into tiny basic shacks. Brings back memories of Sally Struthers commercials. Most sleep on the ground, not much in the way of insulation, these people survive very harsh cold conditions with not much more than a wood fire in the middle of there homes. Nearby livestock chicken and pigs live in attached huts or pens. 

My only complaint is just how aggressive  some of the hill tribe people can be trying to sell local handicrafts. Though much work goes into these craft nick knacks, I can't see how they can make a living following tourists around for HOURS. I think tourists buy things just to make them go away. Little do they know this just encourages others to follow. At a resting point we sat for a a drink and within seconds we were surrounded on all sides by women from different tribes all trying to get us to buy their goods.  It's amazing that even young children are out following tourists trying to sell goods; even more amazing is the amount of english that the hill tribe women and children can pick up from tourists. Some of them speak better English than they do Vietnamese.

There is really not much more that i can say. I will let the photos speak for themselves. I'm going to be on a train and on a boat in Halong Bay for the next few days so it might be a few days before my next post. I know, I'm already showing signs of withdrawal. Hope you enjoy.

 

 

 

 

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Hanoi Hustle.

We spent the first day on arrival at 8:30 am taking a Hanoi orientation walking tour. We learned  about all the many ethnics minorities and how they live at the Hanoi Ethnology Museum. In the museum we walked through traditional style houses. We saw different colors,  patterns, and textiles and handicrafts of different ethnic groups.  And we learned how they farmed and hunted. Pretty interesting that the land that is now Vietnam has so much diversity in its people and its geographic regions. We also learned about the traffic laws in Vietnamese or lack thereof... (more about this to follow.)

The Temple of Literature was our next stop. Home to the first university of academics in Vietnam, it was found under Confucious teaching of working hard to earn honor for your family. Top scoring students would work directly under the king and become his advisors or governors. The drum below was built to commemorate 1000 years of Hanoi's history.


Tran Quoc Pagoda is the oldest pagoda in Vietnam constructed in the 6th century and is surrounded by the west lake. There was a Buddhist funeral ceremony going on when we visited. Unfortunately we couldn't get a clear view of the hierarchy of the different Buddhas in the temple. The gold buddhas were beautiful from what I can see. There is a lot of similarity in the way Vietnamese and Chinese Buddhists practice and believe.
Ho Chi Minh mausoleum is set on a huge plot of land near the presidential palace built during French occupation. The French installed a dummy government that they could control to export goods out of Indochina. When Ho Chi Minh gained power he refused to live in the palace and instead wanted to live more like is people without all the opulence. He actually built a traditional teak house on stilts that became his residence until he died. This house was small efficient and practical. Below the house was a large meeting table at which his fellow communists wrote laws and created the government which they now live with. He invited young children to sit around the table while his advisors and him met. He wanted the children to see how he worked and to understand that his government was for his own people. It's sunny because the mausoleum is nothing like the modest way he lived, but the people of northern Vietnam really cherish him as a national hero.

The craziness of Hanoi's traffic is impossible to explain. All I can say is that it's chaos. There seems to be no order to it. Cars, trucks, motorbikes, bicycles, and pedestrians seem to get buy in a basket weave of swarming noise and horns. It seems to work for them but watching tourists trying to cross the street is quite entertaining. 

More entertaining is seeing just what else they can fit on a scooter. Whole family's, chickens, steer or goats. For Tet, Vietnamese new years it is common to see them carrying mandarin bushes or cheryl blossoms. The new leaves and fresh buds represent a new start and a beginning. 

 

Monday, January 16, 2012

Suvarnabhumi, Bangkok

 We arrived safely in Bangkok for a quick night stay (3 hours) at Suvarnabhumi Suites, about 5 mins away from the airport. It's funny when you arrive in Asia how quickly you are reminded that as big as our city seems, and how crowded we might feel, in Asia personal space is so different. They really do live on top of each other.

The flights was long but we survived except for a little back pain. Economy overseas flights make even the hardest mattresses seam like a cloud. 

Suvarnabhumi Suites hotel is small clean and efficient. Though our cube superior has no window, it's clear when you see the hood that the window wouldn't provide a good view regardless.

We crossed the street to a local bar that was very busy for a quick eat. Two pepsi, Some papaya salad, some ground chicken larb, and a very delicious gai pad thai (chicken), surrounded by locals. Total price 200 baht.  That's about $6. We couldn't even finish it. Yum I love Thailand! See the pictures below.

P.S. Sammay your haircut is perfect. 22 hours of travel, wearing a beanie an eye mask, and neck pillow, sweltering heat and my hair looks exactly like it did when I left San Francisco on Sunday.


 

 

Thursday, January 12, 2012

It's Time

Or rather, it's almost time. I must say that I'm so lucky to have the job that I have and the clients that I have. So many of them are so special to me. I love my work. Over the past eleven months I've worked my little tush off, paid my dues, and earned my wings. 2011 has been a great year with so many blessings (in the least Christian sense).  But  I am TIRED and burnt out. Friends, and I mean friends not just coworkers, thank you for carrying me through and helping me push through the past few months. 

2 very full and hectic days remain between me and my much needed R&R and a bit of adventuring. For the next 3 weeks I will fill my days with as much culture as I can take in, lots of yummy food and some rays of sun. I hope that you will enjoy reading my blog and following me as I take this voyage.

I've added this video that my friend Stacy posted that has a very personal message of love and hope that I wish more people could understand. Please enjoy it with me. It's time...

 

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Pack Anxiety!

Maybe no one else has the same problem but I'm having some Pack Anxiety. I've committed to myself to only bring a small backpack and carry on suitcase. Can I do it? 3 weeks 2 bags. As much as I'd like to be a minimalist; my friends would tell you I'm anything but. The challenge for me is that I'm a complete overpacker.


Options! We need options! How do I chose what to bring? How will I live without all my tech junky toys, e-machines, and Istuff. Which shoes do I bring and which do I leave? How many shirts how many pairs of underwear? And which bathing suit? Too many options.

My only alternatives are to make Reto carry any spillover in his bag, Or give in and bring a second bag or a bigger one. Well wish me luck and I would appreciate any tips. 

Monday, November 21, 2011

Portishead reunited at the Greek Theater Berkeley



Had to share an experience of a lifetime and possibly the last time they will ever tour together. It always amazes me when I see a show in the bay area. There is always so much diversity in styles, race, age; it reminds me how amazing my home is. Barbara and Andy hope you remember this show forever. One of my all time favorite bands and part of my formative years when I grew into the person I am today.